Saul’s Restaurant & Deli – Berkeley California

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Urp, sorry. Saul’s Restaurant & Deli has been open since 1986, doesn’t seem too terribly long. But for anyone to has enjoyed the faire, it feels as though it’s been a lifetime. My mother frequented it so often that if anyone she knew would come to eat, the waitresses would send home cookies for her. My sister and her husband Meathead go all the time, I’m sometimes in tow, pried from underneath from my rock.
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It’s a little on the large side for a “deli”, but perfect for a restaurant. Saul’s has gone out of their way since the beginning to bring their customers not only an excellent Jewish Deli, but also the best in local, sustainable and organic ingredients. In-house made pastrami? Yup. In-house made pickles? Yup. In-house made tons of other goodies? You bet!
Your grandmother would be grins from ear to ear to be served their, “Chicken in a pot.” A home-made chicken soup that contains it all, and about half the size of the Titanic. One of my favorite parts though is their policy about NOT trimming the fat off their pastrami brisket. Pretty cool, eh?
To be perfectly honest though, the reason I go back is the fact is that the quality of their ground beef is so high they can offer their burgers cooked rare. That’s right, rare.
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The burger is so perfect, so wonderful. It’s served on an Acme bun, resting by itself. Next to it lay nestled good leaf lettuce, thin red onion and tomatoes so read they hurt your eyes. You can order cheese and/or pastrami as a topping, I chose pastrami this time. Sure you can get real french fries, potato salad or whatever. I find they detract from the burger. When cooked rare, I suggest you do not lay it down. Once you hold it how you want, eat it. The juices are the one you want in your mouth, not on your plate.
I love Saul’s, as do many. If you’re looking for destination burger and pastrami, Saul’s is the place to seek. After your meal, you’re left to wander Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto with The Cheese Board and Chez Panisse and many others.
Saul’s Restaurant & Deli
1475 Shattuck Avenue
Berkeley, CA 94709
510-848-DELI
Biggles

French Grocer – Marathon Texas

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Editor’s note: Joe Bob and JLee continue on in their West Texas walkabout.
We had breakfast at Marathon Coffee Cafe. Um, huevos and such. NBD. Cozy joint. They serve Big Bend Coffee (roasted in Marfa) here. And they sell the beans. If you’re camping or touring, and you have brought the ‘proper’ equipment, get your beans here. And make it yourself, the right way. Get everything else at French Co. Grocer, Hwy 90 & Avenue D. They got wi-fi, ice, beer and food and medicine and love.
We loaded up on stuff and headed to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Sorry no pictures. But I will tell y’all we saw many Daddy Long Legs with 6″ leg spans. No kiddin. And we weren’t drunk either.
French Grocer – Marathon, TX
JLee

The Ice House / a drive through booze load up station – Ozona Texas

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Editor’s Note: Yay, another fine post from JLee and Joe Bob’s trip to West Texas. I like the part where you can see they’re selling portable carport thingies as well as booze & ice. 600 bux?
We came across a few of these on this trip. Now, I’ve seen drive-up, window service liquor stores. These are drive-thru. You can load up cases and cases of stuff, and a whole lotta ice. I’m sure there’s a story behind this way of doing business. I surely appreciate being able to just drive right into the store.
Jlee

Butterball’s Table-Top Turkey Deep Fryer, made by Masterbilt – A Review

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Earlier this year I received an email from a large ad agency, a man wanted to know if I was interested in reviewing Butterball’s new table-top deep fryer for turkeys. Hmm, free fryer and it’s large enough for a turkey? Duh. We’d chatted via email a few times for over a year, wasn’t just some nameless droid in a cubicle somewheres, actually had a personality and seemed to get Meathenge. Butterball’s version of the Masterbilt turkey fryer wasn’t out yet, was going to have to wait a few months, no big deal.
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It finally arrived! Pretty darn large box, pretty darn large fryer. I opened it up and peered in. I looked, crooked muh hillbilly neck a bit and exclaimed, “Dang, no turkey is going to fit in that basket!” You see, I had a 5.2 lb chicken in the fridge and compared sizes, using just one eye ball. No way. I pulled and checked the instructions, up to about a 12 lb turkey, maybe 14. 11-12 lb was optimum, and it showed the little bird laying inside the basket. I wasn’t seeing it in reality though.
Those of you who know, finding a turkey under 12 pounds is nigh impossible in the off season, this being not Thanksgiving. Birds that small are a special order and even then youse takes yer chances. So, over the next few weeks I stalked the local mega marts, searching for my tiny bird. I finally found one, just under 12 pounds. Set to the fridge to thaw for the next week.
I could have gone fancy here with a brine, herbs, bacon stuffing or whatever, but I wanted to do a test run and see what the scoop was. Once that’s taken care of, then one can move on to some fancy steppin’. I got a real shocker on my next stop to my local grocery, 10 dollars a gallon for inexpensive cooking oil! And this cooker requires a full tub of oil, that’s 2 gallons to deep fry a turkey. While that is a lot of oil, that’s about 3 gallons less than the outdoor propane powered situations. Of course they’ll do a 14 pounder with ease, I’m still not convinced this table-top model will do a 12. I had my turkey, I had 20 dollars worth of cooking oil and I had the time, it was deep fry turkey day!
Translation: It was Thursday night (a work night), after a week in the fridge it still wasn’t thawed, it was dark out and I was having second thoughts about having 2 gallons of 375 degree oil on my counter and nobody around to call 911 for me. I’d just got over putting a burning ember hole in my left foot and the thought of deep frying myself wasn’t making me feel very good. So, I called my sister and brother inlaw over.
30 minutes later they were here, the oil was at 375, the turkey was thawed (soaked it in cool tap water), then thoroughly dried inside and out. It was time. I’ve deep fried things quite a few times and know now that one wants to lower the food slowly, s-l-o-w-l-y. With the instructions in my left hand, I lowered the turkey with my right, set the timer for 48 minutes and closed the lid.
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The fryer has a filtered lid, so while there was quite a bit of steam, the smell of cooking oil was really minimal. After the 48 minutes went by, this is what I got. Um, not a bad looking bird, eh?
As expected it was moist, juicy from one side to the other. The breast meat was a little over done, would cut the cooking time down to 40 minutes next time. I rarely have over done breast meat, so I was kinda shocked at that. Still more than perfectly edible and it was consumed right there in the kitchen.
One can probably guess the bird fit just fine in the basket, I would not recommend anything over 12 pounds though. It’d be stuffed too tightly in the basket and would not allow the oil to completely cover the bird, and this is what you want for the best possible golden brown results. The machine seems to be built well enough, everything removes easily for cleaning. It’s got a drain pipe for the oil and it’s large enough so you don’t have to wait 20 minutes for all the oil, nor does it get clogged with bits. I left the machine on my counter for 2 days with the lid closed to see how smelly it might be and I have to say it was nearly undetectable. I did wake up the next morning with the Deep Fried Kitchen Smell, but it was easily dissipated with a few hours of open doors. No oil spray on cabinets, thank goodness. A cool feature I noticed while fumbling with the power cord, it’s held on to the unit with magnets. Which means if something happens, all you have to do is give it a gentle whack and the power is separated from the unit. As for clean-up, the oil tub and basket fit in my dishwasher with the top rack removed. All in all, I give this fryer two greasy thumbs up.
I did notice the box and instructions boasted that you could also use this fry for steaming and boiling food. I haven’t tried it, but I do know something about table-top fryers, once you use them as intended, they’re a dedicated machine. Getting that fried oil smell out is near impossible and any steamed or boiled food would have a fried oil flavor, so I wouldn’t actually plan on using it as such. You can try of course, but don’t be surprised when your taters come out tasting like yer oil.
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All that said and done, I’m not hip to the deep fried turkey thing. 20 dollars worth of oil, gone. While the clean-up was “easy”, it’s still a pain in the ass. And now I have 2 gallons of waste oil I have to drive down and dispose of properly at our local hazmat dumping site. No waste cooking oil can be put in our recycling bins. But Biggles, it was oh so tasty, isn’t it worth it? Um, I like my turkey roasted in the oven, it’s a personal thing.
If deep frying a turkey is something you want to try or something you enjoy regularly, this rig will do it and with far less oil than the larger outdoor method. It’s safer too! No 911 call was made.
xo, Biggles
Author’s note a day later: I understand I can filter and reuse the oil. The issue is that I wouldn’t get around to using it for 3+ years. Annnd, just because I reuse the oil 2, 3, 4 times doesn’t mean I still don’t have to have it properly disposed of. Cheers!

The Famous Burro – Marathon Texas – Drinking !!!

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Editor’s Note: OoOOoo, drinking booze in Texas, ain’t that just the best? JLee & Joe Bob head in for some cool refreshing beverages.

This place doesn’t serve food til 6pm. We got here at 5. Decided to drink for an hour. Only a couple other people there, so we got to hog the bartender. Matt, the NICEST bartender in West Texas. (see him at their website) Had a great selection of everything. I had my first Shiner Bock ever. It was frosty goodness. A shot of Macallan 18. Tried some local made pale ale from the tap. Then we ordered food. Hmmm. I had roasted pork, Joe Bob had chicken curry. Maybe it was an off night for the chef, we’ll leave it at that. Back to drinking. A tasty cocktail of vodka, citrus, and some thing I can’t remember. It left a real good taste in my mouth. I’ll go back there, try some other dish next time. Great place to sit and drink for a whole evening.
jlee
The Famous Burro
Marathon, TX
(432) 386-4100

Hot Pit BBQ – Del Rio Texas

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Editor’s Note: Here’s another installment of JLee and Joe Bob’s trip to West Texas. They’ve been back now for a week or so and we’ve got some insight to what’s going on in BBQ there. Pretty cool trip, eh?
Remembering McBee’s in Hondo, a very swell brisket. Very moist, proper smoke. Lotsa side carbs here. Appears I am eating off Joe Bob’s plate, pacing myself. I’m wondering if we’re just getting lucky, or if there’s better cows this year. This sauce was sublime. Joe Bob ended up putting it on the beans even. Requisite Dr. Pepper, if there’s no RC Cola.
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JLee & Joe Bob
Hot Pit BBQ
309 Avenue F
Del Rio, TX 78840
(830)775-3883

Lemon Tree After the Rain

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All day it poured, far sooner than was expected.
The sun came out to offer some love, garden grew greener in only a few hours.
One should leave their guarded perch to view and experience what’s going on.
It’s pretty darned spectacular and to say the least, it’s pretty and makes you feel good.
xo, Biggles

Fatted Calf – The Class – Whole Hog Butchery & Sausage Making !!!

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Where does the time go? If anyone has a clue, or a coupon so I can get a discount on one, let me know.
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A few months ago I took Fatted Calf‘s 3rd class, Whole Hog Butchery & Sausage making Part I. It was a last minute deal and headed out.
The class is held in their very own commercial kitchen and butcher shop up in Napa at the Oxbow Market. The classes start at 11am and go until 3pm, plenty of time to get there and plenty of time finish out the day, niiice. The class is limited to 12 people, plenty of room and time for some real hands on instruction. And brother, or sister, you’re getting instruction in butchering and sausage making by one of the top Supreme Poobah Master Butchers of all time. Taylor holds nothing back in procedure, where the ingredients come from or how to bring the recipe together. He shares all and always has, it’s because he cares. Pretty cool, eh?
Okay, so here you are at the Fatted Calf HQ, knife in hand or casing manipulation, how could it get any better? That’s right, they supply the lunch. And this ain’t your grandfather’s continental breakfast at HoJo’s. No ma’am, this is a lunch that fits squarely in Napa’s finest spreads. Wine too! Yeah, it’s like that. But wait, there’s more, oh yes. You get 10% off after the class on whatever they have in the meat case for that day! That’s not enough for Team Fatted Calf though, you get to take with you a generous assortment of the sausages that you made that day!
Okay, I’ll wait while you call (707) 256-3684 to secure your spot in one of their upcoming classes:

All About Duck
Saturday, Sept 26 from 11-3
Saturday, November 14 from 11-3
Whole Hog Butchery Part I
Saturday, October 17 from 11-3
Blood & Guts
Saturday, October 31 from 11-3
Celebrate Decadence: Truffles, Paté & Foie Gras
Saturday, December 5 from 11-3
Saturday, December 12 from 11-3

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… okay off the phone?
As you’ve already surmised, this is a Destination Class. Cancel previous plans, rent a car, buy the plane tickets, do what it takes. You need to be in one of these classes, it was that good. Taylor & Toponia are absolutely superb in their abilities as cooks, chefs, hosts & instructors. If you miss out, go ahead and just smack yourelf in the face with a hammer now and get it over with.
xo, Biggles
ps – Please visit Meathenge’s Flickr account for some more grab shots I took of the day.

McBee’s Bar-B-Q – Hondo Texas

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Editor’s Note: This just in directly from Hondo Texas. Joe Bob and JLee are meandering their way through Texas as we speak. Texas Barbecue is on the menu and Shiner’s Mesquite Smoked Lager Beer is the grail. Will let you know when the holy grail is discovered.
Meal was great! some of best brisket we ever had. Really good Polish sausage too. chicken was chicken but amazing skin like turkey and rub of some sort. we kept leftovers for later and they did not last long. Brisket had killer smoke ring and crusty outer layer. Most….not that tired dry stuff you normally find on the tour de Texas.
This is brisket country no doubt. No pork yet but we keep searching. Tried another place in Del Rio but that come over tonight. We in Marathon now at cool hotel, RV park and got last room. Now we off to James Evans gallery and French Grocer store. Searching hard for Pearl Beer !! (Search for Shiner you knob!)
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Joe Bob
McBee’s BBQ
1301 19th St
Hondo Texas 78861
830-426-4045

Cheese the chop, G the O, on Sour Papa!

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A month ago I stumbled myself over to a garage sale, just to have a look. As I walked up my mind was racing, “Don’t do it, don’t do it, walk away, leave now while you can.” Of course I continued on my merry way ooooing and aahhing my way through. There was this really nice, smallish antique sideboard I could really use. But she wanted nearly 400 bux for it, really? I also spied this really nice old radio in an Asian inspired wooden case that was about the same size as the sideboard, didn’t really need that. Then I saw her, glistening in the sun. She was glorious, a sight to behold. And from the looks of things, unused!
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She’s a 3′ wide, nearly 3′ deep, 180 pounds of a propane powered griddle! What sold me was the fact it was set up to jack right in to the same ol’ propane bottle I have at home. I was in my little Toyota wagon and had to drive home to pick up my Dodge pickup (V8 manual transmission baby!). Lucky for me the top lifts right off, but coming in over 150 pounds, it’s not simply a breeze to move around. I got it temporarily set up in my outdoor cooking area, The Boom Boom Room. There she sat for a few weeks underneath a cover.
Ya know, it was during those few weeks that I realized that this wasn’t necessarily one of the smartest purchases I’d made. I would need to use my hand-truck to get this thing in to the garage. And, the griddle portion rusts, quickly. It was clear, we weren’t made for each other for the long haul and we’d have to part ways in the near future (before winter). But that didn’t mean I couldn’t have some fun in the meantime!
Picture yourself a sunny Sunday afternoon in the shade, cool ocean breeze tickling the air from time to time. The smell of summer is giving way to a wet incoming winter. You’re at home and don’t have to leave the house for anything or anyone. The inspiration hits and you realize you have pork chops, onions, cheese, bread and some butter just screaming to be put together. It was lunch time and Z was looking for some food, it was time.
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While the griddle hadn’t been used, it did need some cleaning. I grabbed the hose, a green scotch-brite pad and some Barkeeper’s Friend. Man, that stuff made quick work and I had a clean griddle in no time! I turned around to put the hose down, then turn it off. By the time I got back it was already rusting up! Got me some paper towels and corn oil handy, cleaned the griddle again, dang. Toweled it dry and put on the corn oil immediately. I loves my corn oil, can smell it when it begins to warm, so nice!
Within minutes it was hot and I was standing at my griddle making everything go. Man, it was so much fun! “Look at me !!! I’m Sponge Bob! One crabby patty coming up, Mr. Crabs!” Best afternoon ever and I have to say the boneless pork chop with cheese and grilled onions was superb, Z said so.
Today sadly, I have to report that Chilebrown‘s friend Chef Ray came and took her away this last weekend. He’s a professional caterer and will actually put her to regular use, just as it should be. Farewell to thee, griddle o’ pork.
xo, Biggles

A Review: Truffled Cornish Game Hen

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Eeek! The chicky is leaking!


Laurel of Mire Poix sent me some fancy Perigord truffles for review, what do to? Maybe I should ask Tinker and Tanker? They knew what to do! (Odd Richard Scary reference, sorry!)
I checked their web site and they had a nifty recipe for using the truffles under the skin of some game hen action. That’s something I could do, enjoy and complete without causing myself any undue grief. But where to find decent game hens? I didn’t want to buy the ones at my local grocery and my other haunts just don’t have them. I rested on my laurels for a few days and decided I was going to actually have to drive a distance to find what I was looking for, or did I?
While picking up the boys out in Lafayette, I remembered and spied Diablo Foods across the street from where I was idling at a traffic light. Diablo Foods isn’t for the feint of heart or the low in wallet funds. Their meat department is vast and well staffed, and breathtakingly expensive. I found what I wanted, good game hens, right there in the middle! Just in case I flubbed a run, I bought 4. Only came to 28 bux, sigh. I succeeded though and was on my way.
I’d had such great success with Kevin of Seriously Good‘s gastrique recipe, i decided to try it with apricots (there were in season at the time). And instead of actually following Mire Poix’s recipe (rules are meant to be broken), I decided to smoke the birds instead of roasting them or using their sauce.
I shaved the truffle and slid it under the skins, rubbed with salt-free butter, then a little bit of kosher salt over all. Install to smoker after the temp has settled, easy peasy. When dark meat has reached 160, pull and let rest. The gastrique recipe is dead simple and comes right together. J was lucky enough to be able to attend that evening and we dined like a king and queen on this exceptionally tasty meal. The truffles lend a nice earthy flavor, so delicate, so nice. The gastrique however, was a complete miss. It didn’t pair with the dainty truffled bird whatsoever. Don’t get me wrong, the apricot simmered with butter & vinegar was amazing, but it completely missed its mark. Oh, we suffer so. All things said, it was a great way to dress up those little birds and we enjoyed the meal greatly.
Thank you so much Laurel for thinking of me and my staff here at Meathenge Labs. Your gift was most certainly enjoyed and appreciated!
Biggles

Knife Sharpening Class with Eric Weiss – Monday, September 21

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The holidays are coming up here pretty quickly, they’ll be here before you know it and 2009 will be only memories. Even people who don’t cook much during the year will end up doing duty in the kitchen, gasp. For me, the top dangers in the kitchen are deep frying, making caramel and dull knives. For my outdoor kitchen it’s grilling buck naked, but that’s another story.
Who here takes the time to have their knives professionally sharpened at least twice a year? Raise your hands. Yeah, I didn’t think so, but there’s a few of you. Who here sharpens their own knives? Excellent Chilebrown! Anyone else? There’s a few of you, good.
Listen up, I don’t care what kind of knife you use in the kitchen, it could be a 500+ dollar hand-made Kramer knife or something you found in the basement years ago. No matter who made your knife, it ain’t worth a bag of wet marbles unless it’s sharp. I’ll choose a sharp 15 dollar hardware store kitchen knife over any other dull knife. Here’s your chance to learn how to sharpen your own knives from the Master Knife Sharpener Grand Poobah of All Time, Eric Weiss.
How cool would it be to be able to sharpen your own knives properly? Very cool. And now you have the chance to learn the craft the right way. Register today, time is running out!




KNIFE SHARPENING CLASS
With ERIC E. WEISS

Monday, September 21, 2009
6:30pm – 8:30pm $65.00
Paulding & Company, A Creative Kitchen
1410 D 62nd St., Emeryville, 94608
You will be taught to hone your knives to perfection by hand.
A sharpening stone and honing oil is included in the price.
Bring your chef’s knife and paring knife and 1 other.
Eric’s sharpening experience spans over 30 years. Born in England, raised in Germany, his love affair with all things sharp began in boyhood. This devotion grew with him through military service to the Queen, and comes to fruition at Bay Area Farmer’s Markets, Restaurants, Catering Companies, Retail and Private Homes. During this unique hands-on class Eric gladly shares his true wealth of historical, cultural, and scientific knowledge about the blade.
Class details/registration at
Paulding & Co.
510-594-1104

xo, Biggles

Love you Beansprout, most awesome puppy of all time.

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Pets, members of the family, many times you love them more than your family. It’s the unconditional love, inspiration and attention they crave from you and give back even more that draws you in.
Years ago, I ran across Cookie’s web site, I’m mad and I eat. I remember telling someone that I was so excited that I found someone else who was upset, mad and willing to lay down the goodness in food. Time went on and through exchanged comments, emails and meetings and parties and grillings and whatever else it was, we’d found some common ground to have fun on.
It wasn’t until I showed up in person more than a few years ago and my boys paid a visit a few years ago that I got to spend some time with the ‘sprout. The little dude raced from here to there corralling us all, never stopped. Quiet, yet you could see he had intent and direction. Once he was done, he took watch to make sure we didn’t stray, keeping us huddled together. There wasn’t a moment he wasn’t engaged, happy and not being a yappy little dog like most people believe.
I remember the first time I left, after meeting Sprout, I’d have to ask Cookie who he was. Because, if I was going to have the most awesome dog of all time, I wanted that one.
It was too soon little buddy, rest in peace.
Biggles

American type casserole in a rice cooker?

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That was really weird, never even considered it.
Last night I really wanted a casserole type meal. Something rich, creamy and full of gooey flavors that didn’t take too terribly long. I was far to lazy and tired to deal with assembling the standard way, along with the extended cooking times. This would be a staggering 45 minutes to an hour, this wasn’t going to do.
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For the last week have been heavily using my Hello Kitty rice cooker to make rice & peas for dinner. Butter & chicken broth bring the flavors up so it’s a meal that I can deal with. Was sitting there last night thinking, “What if I use the rice cooker, as a cooker?” Everyone knows when you’re cooking rice, keep you paws off the lid so it can do its business. But what if I cooked a meal in it, opened the lid every 10 minutes to stir and add water or broth as needed?
I pretended I was making that casserole and added a cup of rice, knob of butter, can of cream of mushroom soup with a can and at least of water/broth along with some dumb ol’ frozen peas? Put it all together and hit the “on” button. Every 10 minutes or so I opened it up to stir and check on moisture content, wanted a certain juicy constancy. The automatic function turned off before it was done, so hit the “on” button again to jack the heat. While all this was going on I browned off a few sausages on the gas range.
Within about 25 minutes I had myself an excellent white trash meal and enjoyed it thoroughly. If you feel the need to thrash me for not eating locally produced, organic this and that, I don’t care. It got me through the evening and satiated my palate. And I have to say, if you’re doing College Food or Dorm Food, this can’t possibly go wrong. The Japanese rice cooker not only does rice well, but it can double as a faster than normal food cooker. 2 of these and a hot plate could do wonders, don’t pass it up as just a “rice cooker”.
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Remember though, with that amount of salt infusion, copious amounts of liquid will be required.
xo, Biggles

nude bather

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Hi Everyone! I know I’ve been missing in action for more than a long time. Meathenge is not going away, but have been so terribly busy with home and business that I absolutely don’t have any time to cook and or post here.
My brother inlaw bought a fancy drawing tablet, he’s a college degreed artist an junk. Anyhoo, he’s been learning how to use it and has been doing “paint by numbers” to see how things lay. Personally, I don’t care how you slice it, this drawing rocks. Not only does it remind me of something from the past, but it’s so nicely done that I had to share it with you.
It may not have anything to do with food or what I’m up to, but you can surely see why I chose to post it. What do you think?
xo, Biggles