As everyone knows, I can cook. I do cook, but I don’t consider myself someone who cooks. My mettle hasn’t been tested in way too long, sad really. So when Laurel of Mire Poix the premier site for foie gras, truffles & caviar offered to send me a bevy of fresh fancy pants ingredients to review, I jumped in with both feet.
Then I spent a week losing sleep and fretting about every little angle. In my cooler were fresh duck chops, fresh truffles, truffle butter & rillettes du perigord. I decided to break it up in to a few posts so I didn’t lose all my marbles (don’t have many to begin with).
My first email, then a phone call was to Kevin D. Weeks of Seriously Good, “Halp!” He and I have been online buddies for quite some time and I needed a little reassurance and guidance. Given he does this kind of stuff both in the kitchen, teaching and in written word for a living, I figured he’d calm my squirrelly ass down. He did and I was on my way with a list for a 12 hour brine and a peach gastrique (French sweet & sour sauce), hot smoke that duck!
All seems simple, right? Ha! Yeah sure, later that same day I came home with a few pounds of absolutely amazing FREE cherries. Peaches? Cherries? Duck, oh my. It was then I remembered that Rick the retired butcher used to make a cherry & apple brine for his fowl and it was fricken amazing, I wanted THAT brine. See, if I’m going to take the time to brine something, I want more than just salt and sugar, seems like a waste of time to me.
Ain’t it fun taking something simple and throwing a wrench in to it? It’s what I do best. Hell, I could have just salted the duck and grilled it. But I felt I should pay some respect to the duck and Laurel for sending over free food.
I really took my time and was careful with it all, got the duck in the brine without any mishap. It was halfway through the brining that I realized, Rick still makes money off this brine. But then I thought, anyone who gives me a recipe or has their picture taken of me surely has to know it’s going to be on the internet for all to see. But out of respect (this doesn’t happen that often) I called Rick back and talked to him about it. Sure enough, he wasn’t comfortable letting his labored over brine recipe hit the streets. Figures. Here I am, Meathenge and I can’t give you the exact recipe. I love my life, and what I’ve done to it.
So, let’s just say I brined the duck and leave it at that, eh?
Next up the gastrique, eeek! French cooking oh my! As I found out pretty darned quickly even an anxiety ridden hillbilly with no hair can make one of these sauces. I had planned on doing a test run, but in my traditional way of doing things, I didn’t. It was dead simple and can whip one up without even giving it a second thought today. And if you haven’t made or tried one? You need to. The absolutely amazing flavors will astound you. The rich bright flavors of the fruit, then the tiny bite of the vinegar muted with the rich love of the butter and shallot cannot be matched.
Oh! I have a funny story! Kevin sent me a link to his recipe, which when I needed it, could not locate. I did what I hate to do, pull one off the net, look over the ingredients and procedure and make it in my mind to see if it might do the trick, I found one! A few days after I’d made it? I noticed it was Kevin’s recipe at about.com. Dang.
Fruit
Butter
Shallot
Sugar
wine or cognac
vinegar
salt
See? What part of that doesn’t totally rock, here’s his recipe for: Gastrique – French Sweet and Sour Sauce
When the sauce was done, I waited for the duck to get to 160 and pulled it. Truly smoked it in the traditional sense with a hunk of peach wood for flavor that Chilebrown gifted me. I let it rest a bit, sliced and poured some sauce over it. The duck was fork tender with a solid but not nearly overpowering waft of smoke. The gastrique was a compliment and didn’t even remotely over power the duck, oh lovely duck meat!
But now the true test, would my picky 14 and 9 year old boys dig it as much as I did? The 4 chops never left the cutting board in the kitchen, oohs and ahhs were heard during the entire time. They talked to nearly everyone they saw over the next few days saying how good the smoked duck with a peach gastrique was. The look on people’s faces, then staring at me. Oh yeah baby, I can cook.
Thank you to Laurel, thank you Kevin, thank you Rick and thank you Chilebrown for an outstanding meal. If you can’t get such things locally, then Mire Poix of Napa California can get you what you need.
xo, Biggles
ps – There’s more to come from Mire Poix, stay tuned!
Fatted Calf does slab bacon?
Yeah, it’s like that. I have no idea what the availability is, I just happened to run across it this last Saturday at their store at the Oxbow Market in Napa.
Sliced it, fried it. Sweet pork love.
xo, Biggles
Gary West Smoked Meats in Jacksonville Oregon
Well now, it looks as though Meathenge has turned in to Jerky Review Henge. Gary West Smoked Meats in Jacksonville Oregon sent me a good sized box filled with jerky treats. Doin’ the jerky dance!
As you can see, the jerky comes in thickish round sticks, not in sheets nor is it in flat strips. They have bison meat, elk meat, beef meat and all the flavors are represented. It’s one of the few jerkies we’ve had here that are on the softer, juicier side. Just take a look at the picture above and you’ll see, ain’t it nice?
I rate Gary West among the top, the meat is natural and well cared for. The recipes are solid and taste great. The standout though were the Cajun Steak Strips. If I were to order, I’d get a gallon of those. The pungent flavors that this flavor brought forth are worth a ninth trip!
While this post is short, Gary West is long on flavor and quality, did I mention I really, really liked the Cajun Steak Strips?
Gary West Smoked Meats
Biggles
A Tuesday evening, what’s in your smoker?
Been spending some time on the net reading what others are up to, mostly it seems to be “The Heat” and or humidity. Or at least it seems that way to me, mostly because it’s 66 degrees with fresh ocean breezes here near the bay.
Even though it’s a work week, there’s plenty of time in the evening to stoke up the smoker for a short little jaunt through smoked fowl land. Today we have smoked game hens from Diablo Foods in Lafayette. I can’t remember where they were raised, but it sure as hell has nothing to do with the major players usually available (read: I paid dearly).
Rubbed with butter, salted and trussed up to a 217 degree smoker for a little over an hour (honestly can’t remember how long it took). Sure it took an hour to get the fire right, but it was worth the wait. All 3 of us remarked at the juicy tenderness of the breast meat, sorry it wasn’t dry and mealy.
Cheers to you and yours on this fine Tuesday evening,
Biggles
Meathenge Labs Recipe File: Lemon, fresh & whole
I just found this in my freezer. Tiny E says, “All you do is take some toothpicks, stick them in. Then, put it in the freezer!”
Makes sense to me, non?
xo, Biggles
For the Weber kettle – A Cast Iron Grate Replacement by Craycort
Big D emailed me more than a few weeks ago and had stumbled on this new product (came out in June). This new product is a cast iron grate that is a replacement for the old chrome grill in a Weber kettle. Cool, eh? He emailed the guy extolling Meathenge’s virtues and said I just had to have one for review. Who am I to argue about such things?
It showed up directly and I monkeyed with it, figuring on dusting off my old kettle and seeing what this new fangled thing could do on a Meathenge Review. The deal was, the following weekend the boys and I were due up in Calistoga for fun and merriment. I usually cook in a hole in the ground, makes things so much simpler and less expensive. Not only do I not have to haul a grill up, but Jeffrey doesn’t have to buy one just for me to have when I’m there. Just toss an old grate on a few rocks and we’re done. An epiphany, I’ll bring the cast iron grate and use that over a hole in the ground! Duh.
I’m glad I thought of it. Sunday afternoon found me cleaning out my hole, the rocks were in fine shape. A fire was started, let it mellow a bit and set the grate down. It’s pre-seasoned, all ready to go. I grilled sausages, chicken parts, country style pork ribs, bacon directly and a beef tri-tip roast and all came out perfectly. It was a dream to cook on, although squatting next to a fire pit for 3 hours does have its drawbacks. Ouch!
The inventor contacted all the major players for distribution of this grill and had no takers. Personally, I believe they really screwed themselves. Now it’s being sold directly, bypassing all the major corporations, go man go!
I will be doing another review wherein I install this to my kettle, but I felt this product really needed to hit the street sooner than I could get that ready. And this was a perfect opportunity to test its mettle, heh. It performs exceptionally well, the build quality is high and it’s a joy to use. I know the 2 guys that have weber kettles at the party will be ordering this very soon. Don’t even remotely wait to order yours, you need it. Remember, you’re not sending your hard earned money to some large corporation, you’re sending it directly to the guy who invented it.
Craycort’s Cast Iron Grate replacement for the Weber kettle grill. Price is approximately 85 bux for the 22.5″ one.
Biggles
It’s Thursday evening, what’s on your grill?
A rack of St. Louis style pork spares with a kosher salt marinade with a hardwood charcoal and peach wood from Mad Meat Genius, that’s whut. What you gots, foo?
xo, Biggles
KCBS Certified BBQ Judge – Meathenge Labs are one!
Yup, you heard it right. I spent over 5 hours today with Chilebrown and his wife Ms. Goofy in a classroom getting fully instructed while eating chicken, pork ribs, sliced/pulled pork and beef brisket. Neat, eh?
The class started this morning at 7:30 in Fairfield California, just 30 minutes from home. I signed up a month ago or more, they don’t come to town often and the chance to attend wasn’t an option. While I did guest judge the 5th Annual West Coast Championships, I felt it was time to make it legal.
Don’t get me wrong, sure it was fun and the food was really good. But it was an instructional class in every sense of the word. We were schooled in every aspect of judging BBQ by KCBS rules. And brother, or sister, that ain’t no joke. These people take what they do very seriously. The sheer volume of respect they have for the teams is huge. They go way out of their way to make damned sure it’s fair.
You sit a specific direction when judging, no talking, no sitting next to friends. You must be on time and if you don’t show? You’re very well bloody likely to never judge again. Green lettuce, parsley and cilantro are your only garnish, use the white part of iceburg and you’re marked as disqualified for Appearance. If the pork rib meat falls-off-the-bone? Marked down, it should come clean with a tug with your teefs. When a judge reaches for a pork rib and two come away? You get 2 and the 6th judge gets none, everyone marks this team as 1 (disqualified) for Appearance. For me, the most important part of the judging is to rule your decision based upon the merit of that BBQ. You cannot judge it based on how well you cook, or whether you prefer something different. I like that part.
Soon I will be receiving my card, a judge polo shirt and a certificate stating my place in the circle of true BBQ competition judges. I’m a greenhorn to judging and competition, but not to good barbecue.
If you’d like to see a few more pictures from the day, please visit KCBS Judging Class 2009.
Biggles
Broken Garlic Squisher, what ever will I do?
Oh yeah, use a knife.
Garlic presses are only a convenience.
xo, Biggles
Pepper Rub Country Style Pork Perfection of Love
Doh ! I cooked this about a month ago and it’s been one of the posts waiting in the wings. Yeah, it’s like that and I have more than just a few.
I been so tired of the chile powder, paprika and the likes. I’ve had so much over the years which is why I’ve been using mostly good kosher salt to marinate my meat in lately. A while back Eric the Knife Guy and his lovely wife Janet gifted me some spice blends from Oregon Spiceman. This particular blend is their Pepper Rub. Black pepper, white pepper, sweet basil, garlic powder and salt. Sounds good and smells even better.
I had a good load of fancy pork country style ribs from Ted of Highland Hills, it was time. Brought down the trusty clay cooker, sliced up an onion, too much garlic, rubbed the meat 2 hours before, installed enough chicken broth, and slid it in to a cold oven set to 400 degrees. I probably even soaked the clay cooker a bit, like you’re supposed to.
Pull when pully aparty, pull when broth is rich in flavor and texture. Probably around the near 3 hour mark.
How was it? The fancy pork and its flavors pulled right through, so tender, so juicy in its own perfection. But the clean bite of the pepper delivered to my waiting gullet everything I was looking for. The onions brought to the table a sweetness, the garlic rounded out all the flavors with a husky bellow. The pepper rub was a delight and packed a slight punch, tilted my head with complex flavor thinking. It wasn’t something I could serve the boys with their “tender” (read: undeveloped) palate. But brother, or sister, this juicy delectable is absolutely divine poured over a more than heaping pile of buttery mashed taters, even perfect for a mid July festival.
fini
Mug Rootbeer BBQ Sauce – a recipe
A year ago I received a nice email from a guy who was working for a large ad firm, who was in turn working for a grill manufacturing company. He wanted to know if I was interested in posting about some fancy grills. I took a look and they were propane, even the charcoal versions weren’t much to speak of. I passed.
Forward to today and the same gentleman emailed me again, wanted to know if I remembered. I did, and had saved his email from last time. This time he’s working with Mug Rootbeer, wants to know if I’m interested in a BBQ Sauce recipe. For trying out the recipe, he’ll send me a Mug Rootbeer cooler filled with nearly all the ingredients to make it.
Sure, what the hell, count me in.
At first glance the recipe actually looked decent, I was surprised. I didn’t really know what to expect. If it sucked, I was going to rework it and see if I could have some fun, post or no post. If it was decent enough, I’d give credit where credit was due. It was good and the other 6 tasters felt the same. Good Sauce.
One of the benefits of this recipe is that while it does have a good list of ingredients, it doesn’t lean heavily in one direction. Got a good sweet background, tasty tang where it’s wanted with a little swing of fun in the middle. Yeah, yeah, I know. It’s got the liquid smoke, a controversial ingredient. As my sister says, “Don’t add too much ya bone and it’s fine, small amounts.” Or just don’t add it. And as near as I can tell, it’s very reproducible. When I was simmering it down, I lost track of time and volume. Stirred it and tasted, worked out just fine.
If I were to try this again, I’d add a tablespoonful of the red pepper flakes to make it jump. Oh, yes. Please click on, Mug Rootbeer BBQ Sauce Recipe to view and print the card.
I surely have no idea where this recipe came from, I made it and it was good.
Biggles
Meathenge to Fatted Calf to the sharing of meat between father & son
Editors Note: Yeah, confused? I didn’t know how to title this one either. I received this email the other day and was really blown away, I did tear up. We all make jokes, tell “stories” and enjoy the Meaty Lifestyle. But how many of you, and raise your hands, where meat has come in to your life and given you a venue to share the last life & times with a loved one before they pass?
I asked for permission to post this email and to post an image. Please read on and dare to keep a dry eye.
Hey Biggles,
First, I have to say a huge ‘Thank You’ for telling me about subscribing to Toponia’s weekly newsletter for the Fatted Calf a couple years before she and Taylor took the leap and started their operations in Napa. I *so* looked forward to reading her updates and although it wasn’t convenient to hit the SF Farmer’s Market, I knew that one day, I’d get to taste their their products.
Move ahead to a year ago. The Fatted Calf has been running at the Oxbow Public Market for a while, and my dad, who was living in the Yountville Veterans Home was talking to me about Charcuterie and stoking the fires of meat love. I made a promise to create a nice Cheese Board lunch the next weekend, and so, finally stopped by the Fatted Calf for sausage.
Bailey was working the counter, barely two weeks into her start with the ‘Calf. I sampled my way through just about all that was available that week and ended up buying more than a pound of some of the most wonderful sausage I’d had in many, many years. I was sold.
Stopping at the ‘Calf on my way to visit my father became a habit very quickly.
Sadly, my father passed away on April 21st. I thought that I might not head over to Napa so much, but then, I got the heads up from Toponia about their first ever, up-n-coming Basic Pig Butchery and Sausage Making class. Lemme tell ya, I grabbed the phone so fast it set records in three states. I thought it would be a nice way to keep fond memories of hanging out with my dad over exceptional food.
The class was wonderful. Taylor, Toponia and the rest of the crew are fine people indeed. I had such a good time, I’m tempted to volunteer for them sometime.
Thanks so much for sharing your love of meat.
Best to you and yours,
-CM
Eidtor’s Note: Please take a moment and hoist a cool refreshing beverage to CM and his father, a moment of silence and respect.
Sleepy Summer Mornings
Hi Everyone!
Wanted to stop by and say hi to everyone, Hi! While I do have a few posts in the wings awaiting some inspiration, we’re not up to much here at Meathenge Labs. Cooking for me these days consists of burgers, a red sauce sphaghetti dinner and calling Mountain Mike’s Pizza. Sad, yet true. In any case, the boys and I are doing fine, I’m not driving nearly 500 miles a week (until school starts in a few months).
Here’s Tiny E’s feet as he’s sleeping, right now. Sleepy Summer Mornings, ain’t they grand?
xo, Biggles
Bananas and Bacon – Guaranteed to start conversation
editors note: This image is from the back of the book, it was far cooler.
The little book is titled, The New Banana and it hails from 1931. Looks to be an introduction to this new fruit, national news, foreign news, scientific, daily menus for the week & recipes too!
Which leads me to the Bananas and Bacon recipe, no really. If’n you’re interested in a scanned original from the book, please follow the link below.
Bananas with Bacon
6 Bananas
1/4 pound bacon
Roll half lengths of peeled bananas in strips of bacon. Secure with toothpick, if necessary. Broil under flame; or bake in oven-proof dish in a hot oven, 450 degrees F., about fifteen minutes, or until bananas are tender and bacon is crisp. Baste at least once during the baking … Whole bananas may be wrapped in bacon and cooked in the same way.
xo, Biggles
Bistro 1491 – Albany
I grew up in Albany, went all the way through Elementary, Middle and High School, seemed like forever. Back then, Albany was a sleepy little town stuck in time and Solano Avenue (the main drag) was no exception. It wasn’t uncommon to visit stores, shops, pharmacies, offices and diners that’d been there for 50+ years. As a teenager it drove me crazy and ended up taking a bus in to Berkeley (right over there) for a little fun and merriment.
Today, one of the last strongholds of that era, was Walker’s Pie Shop. I was sad to see it go for posterity reasons, but honestly the food didn’t keep me coming back. Wondered what would replace it?
Bistro 1491, babeee !!!