Enameled Cast Iron goes POP !!!

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If I had to take 1 piece to cook with out of my kitchen, it’d probably be this one. Soups, stews, burgers, roast chicken, gumbo, beans, for pasta, bacon and even have done pancakes in it. Deep fry, shallow fry or pan fry, it’s good to go. Simmer some greens? Steam some veggies if you prefer, it can do it.
If you enjoy cooking and have been at it just a little while, you have one. If not, you know you want one and will have it some day. They’re that good. I was lucky, I found this one at a local thrift store for 10 dollars about 16 years ago. I figure it’s about 40 + years old, Descoware (Danish) it says on the bottom. I loves it.
The same day I bought this one, I bought a smaller one, it had chips knocked out of the finish on the inside. Who cares, it was 7 dollars! At the time, I would wash and put the pot on the stove to warm over a flame to dry it off. I noticed that if it got too hot, the enamel would pop off like popping corns. Pop! Okay, so don’t do that. Don’t dry these old things over heat, not a good thing. But time passes and we forget such wisdom.
Until 2 days ago. Had planned on making some onions translucent and warmed some oil in the bottom of the pan. I saw something shiny in the other room and forgot about it for a few minutes, not long. But enough time for the oil to over-heat and cause a chip to fly free from the bottom of the pan.
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Jackass.

Click on and check out the picture, it’s really cool how the cracking and crazing has formed over the years. Especially where the chip came off, check that out! Spiffnoid, eh?
Made me sad, but it’s not the end of the world. The ol’ Danish Oven will function pretty much as it did. Just no storing food in it like I did before. Be wary of highly acidic food, probably not a good idea. But this piece will live on for another however many years. Or until I chip a tooth on an unseen bit of enamel.
Cheers!

Napa Valley Blow By

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Hi Everyone,
Oh where do the time go? I miss you guys and think about you on a daily basis. The daily doings here are just that, the same ol’. Big D and I haven’t been going out to lunch, so no new local places to review. Weekday versus Weekend meals couldn’t possibly be any more repetitive. This isn’t to say they’re not lip-smackingly delightful, but stuff I’ve posted here over and over. How many times do you really want to hear about a roast of pork sirloin? I don’t mind eating it, that’s for sure! We’re here and doing just fine, nothing post worthy has slithered past my eye nuts. Eye nuts. Really? Eye nuts? I just made that up, just in case you were wondering.
On Sunday, while going through my images I ran across the above. I never ended up posting it and thought it would be nice for today. I took this last Fall up in Calistoga while visiting a friend. Early Sunday morning, Jeffrey and I got up and headed out to see what kind of light we could hunt & kill.
The conversation meandered to our mutual friend Jack. Jack and I were roommates back in 1985 and it was clear his camera was a tool and nothing more. He’s an artist, the camera is only there to capture what his eye sees. At every turn you’d find Jack hanging out of, from just about anything. The entire time the zoom was being pushed in or out while jumping up and down or running. And sure enough, Jack would mention, “I think my camera is broke.” Jeffrey responded with a, “NO SHIT !”.
I was pondering through those times early Sunday morning while I set my camera. Manual focus, set lens to maybe 20 some odd feet out. Shutter priority to something dreadfully slow. Hung the lens out the window and grabbed this one. And get this, it came out of the camera like that. Go head, click on it for a little larger one. Just like that, POW. I did jack the contrast just a tad, but nothing else. Some day, this sucker is going on my wall.
xo, Biggles
ps – I found a few more that I took that weekend and put them up on my flickr page.

Kingsford’s new Competition Briquets

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I was looking at putting this together last week, but couldn’t come with an angle that pleased me. Me & briquets parted ways over 10 years ago and I never looked back. I found that mesquite gave me what I was looking for in grilling and smoking. Plus it didn’t have that telltale sign of a sulfurous smell during and after cooking. Why am I worried about what my smoker smells like after the fact? Grills aren’t so fussy, but if your smoker gets tainted by creosote (smoldering fire ((brown smoke)) or similar nasty smells, it’ll wind up on your food! Don’t believe me? Take some oven cleaner, spray your kitchen’s oven, turn it up to 350 and put a chicken in there. See if your chicken and house doesn’t smell like a chemical factory coming to pay a much feared visit? Heh, no drama here, eh?
A few weeks ago a really nice woman working for one of Kingsford’s PR companies contacted me, wanted to know if I wanted a bag of their new Competition Briquets. Fewer ingredients, burn hotter and longer. Sure, what the hell. Besides, she’s contacted me before over the years and wanted to finally take part in something fresh.
Up until this last Friday, still couldn’t come up with an angle. I googled a few things and read other people’s reviews of charcoal, lump or briquet. Man, these people are nuts! In a good way though, they really go all out. Gram scales, infrared thermometers, timed images, comparison to older versions of the same. It was crazy, I sure as hell wasn’t going to embark on such a journey. I just don’t care that much. There is something I care about though, and that’s how my food tastes. Let’s see how these new briquets cook and what I can come up with in the arena of flavors, or lack therein.
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I ran off to Joya de Ceren for my meaty choices, they have the best flank steak around and it doesn’t cost 9 dollars a pound. Flank steak tacos for lunch and figured maybe a smoked whole chicken for dinner. I used a chimney starter and a few pages from my local phone book (really, who uses these things anymore?), and the briquets came right to life. They smoked a bit and smelled like charcoal briquets. It didn’t take long, about 10 to 15 minutes before they were ready to dump in the firebox. I let it go a bit longer, I was in no hurry and wanted to give them some severe heat for a little while longer.
Plus, as it turns out, a wasp was building a nest in the flue of my smoker. I figured this was a great opportunity to play! I got the kids in the house, made sure I had my escape route set up and dumped the briquets in the firebox. I gently closed the smoker and ran in the house. The boys and I spent the next ten minutes with our noses pressed up against the windows attempting to see what was what. The wasp finally came out, lit on the little hood of the flue. He kept trying to fly back down, but couldn’t due to the heat pouring out. After a while the little hat over the flue was so hot he couldn’t rest on it. Another 10 minutes rolled by and it was clear this wasp wasn’t leaving. So, I snuck out to the barn and found my wasp death in a can. It didn’t take long to take care of business and check on the briquets.
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These are the new generation briquets from Kingsford. They have these grooves on the back that supposedly allow them to light faster. More surface area, don’t ya know. They could very well do that, it makes sense, in a scientific way. And these Competition Briquets are supposed to burn hotter, last longer with less ingredients. This could all very well be true, I don’t know. I’m more interested to see what they do to my food. I would also think they’d be very spiffy for camp dutch oven cooking, hotter would be nice!
The flank steak cooked right along, done directly over the hottest coals. Good colors and as you can see, pulled when ready. Tasted just fine to me, the odor I usually associate with briquets wasn’t there. After the steak was done, let the coals cook down a bit. Played with them, seemed to hold together just fine. I spent the next few hours adding more (cold, not pre-burned), playing, poking and seeing how they lit when added to a waning fire. As I remember, it used to take a bit to get the fire back up to snuff so you could add the food. That was one of my complaints versus their mesquite or hardwood lump counterparts, adding cold fuel with food on the grill is a nono. They seemed to fire up and gray over pretty quickly.
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After a few hours of goofing off, started prepping the fire for smoking. Added more briquets, got them gray, spread them out and closed the lid on the smoker. After the fire simmered down a bit, tossed on a whole, trussed and salted chicken to the side. Added some hickory chips, got them good and going, closed the lid. Came back about every 30 minutes, stirred the briquets and added more hickory.
I added some briquets halfway through, pre-burned in the chimney so the temp in the smoker didn’t dip any further. In about 3 hours I had myself a whole, smoked chicken. Set the sucker aside for 10 minutes to cool. It smelled as it should, nothing that would have lead me to believe briquets had been used. I sniffed the firebox, not too close you knob, to see if I could get the sulfurous smell I remember so well. It wasn’t there, eeeenteresting. Of course it didn’t smell like mesquite or hardwood leavenings, but it didn’t smell bad either. And that my friend, is a good thing.
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Z and I sliced up the chicken to see what was what. Damn, that was one fine smoked chicken! And you know what? The breast meat was juicy. Ha! I say, “Ha” to you. Nyah. This chicken totally didn’t suck, I’m impressed.
To sum it all up, Biggles used charcoal briquets for the first time in over 15 years, now that I think about it. While I found the briquets performance to be as good or better than I remember, and not quite as stinky, I’m not a convert. I’ll still be using mesquite or hardwood lump, it’s my preference. But I have to give it to Kingsford, this briquet is not my grandfather’s briquet.
Biggles

Green Light Jerky Company – #18 Jamaican Jerk

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Last week I got a little delivery of some beef jerky, made by the people who contacted me. It was a gift and didn’t have to post it. But damn, the stuff is good and well worth the post. Plus the pictures came out really well, I thought.
If you take a look at the Green Light Jerky Company and what they have to offer, you’ll see it’s different from what many other companies deliver. First off, they make it. They use local ingredients and attempt to make it as organic and natural as they can. There’s no nitrates, no msg, no thickening agents, No food colorings. This is real beef jerky. I was sent their #18 Jamaican Jerk flavor, but they have a handful of others to try.
This version was of a medium thickness, on the dry and chewy side. Maybe 1″ wide and 6″ long. Once it hit the palate, the spices and herbs began to fly. Since it’s “home made” one piece may have some different flavors from the others, and that’s a good thing. On a finish, it was rich, nice and the habanero came in to play (heat).
If you’re not going to make your own, then then these guys have it covered. I’m impressed, it’s good jerky!
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Biggles

Clay pot cooker pulled pork sammiches!

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Every time I even remotely remember some of the downright stupidity and lack of thought versus research that C.I. magazine spews my mind goes in to a tailspin. One such largish article they put in to print was a review of pork and its many cuts. It was well laid out with pictures and everything. They wanted us to know what was which and how to play with each one. My jaw hit the floor when they said the pork sirloin roast was not recommended.
Not Recommended was all that cut got. It was too hard to slice they said, too uneven. Not Recommended. Wtf, over?
The pork sirloin roast is one of my top favorite cuts! It’s got the rich porky flavors that you’d find in a butt roast, the tenderness of a loin roast, you can cook it to 138 or 190. How could this cut not pass muster? They’re stupid, that’s all there is to that. And? For this recipe I didn’t use a knife at all! Gah.
Last Saturday found Biggles at the meat area, lifting up packages of this and that. I wasn’t inspired until I spied a sirloin roast in the back. Yoink! It was about 3 pounds of inexpensive perfection. I knew right where this sucker was going, in the clay cooker and it was going to be simple.
Jack oven to 400, rack on bottom. Sliced a white onion and laid on the bottom, 7 cloves of whacked garlic and a sprig of fresh rosemary. Kosher salted the roast and brought to room temperature. Put the lid on and toss in the hot oven for 25 minutes, drop to 350 for an hour. Turn temp down to 325 and cook for another 3 or so hours.
Use 2 forks to splay meat and let it sit for a bit to soak up the juices that collected on the bottom. Remove portion of meat to fry pan, add BBQ sauce and gently warm. Slice bun, install meat and enjoy! The pork could have been used in the sammich as it was, so perfect. Toothsome, rich and every bit a winner. It’s porky love at its best. MmMmMmmm, porky love.
Biggles

J. Lee Roy’s Dippin’ Sauce

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On Saturday night I did another pork roast in the clay cooker, a pork sirloin roast this time. It was perfect in every way. I wanted to do a pulled pork sammich, seemed likely. Needed a sauce that was doable out of the jar, thought I remembered this one doing well.
You can quote me on this one, “This shit sucks.”
Combine a cup of ketchup with a cup of sugar then a huge dose of Chinese Five Spice. “This shit sucks.”
It’s going in the trash.
Biggles

Inside the “lemon”

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Can you tell I used a tripod and UV balanced studio lighting? Mebbe, just wanted you to know this isn’t something I just walked by and snapped a few off. The contrast and detail isn’t possible without pod & lighting.
Along with yesterday’s still life post, here’s the inside. Jlee sent me an link to the Buddha’s Hand, I don’t think this is it. Chilebrown has an entire tree devoted to that citrus. Mac put up that it’s a fruit fly and to check for webbing. While I did find a few things in there, I got no idea what’s going on.
It smells like lemon, tastes like lemon, but doesn’t look like lemon. Lydia, I think the stuff you’re seeing at the market is a real Buddah’s Hand. Mines is a freak of my very own nature.
xo, Biggles

Clay Pot Cooking, not a crock, yo. word. Shaddap Biggles.

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The flavors are still on my tongue. Am attempting to bring you some word, some phrase or metaphor that can describe what the last 12 some odd hours were like. Please click on the image and just sit with that for a moment while I collect my thoughts.
Over the past month I’ve been monkeying around with this clay chicken cooker thing. The last dish I made was exceptionally proud of, for several reasons. Not only was it a winner in the chicken & rice casserole flavor department, but it cost just under 5 bux total. This is the dish where I learned that an entire, diced onion is too much. How did I find out? Ask the boys as they dove out the car’s windows the following morning, heh. I still got it.
All along, been wanting to do a pork roast of any kind in the thing, duh. Sunday afternoon found me at Joya de Ceren, visiting Omar and seeing what tasty treats I could find in his meat cooler. Pork shoulder baby! 3.5 pounds of a really great looking hunk of meat. I grabbed the ingredients I thought I needed and expected to have that sucker in the oven within an hour or so.
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That didn’t happen. Too much relaxing and one too many naps, the day was gone. There’s always Monday!
Man, I got home Monday and was in no mood. I could tell where this was going, the days would slide and so would the pork. Nope, I had to make it work and it had to be now. All the ideas of making my own Mexicanny dry rub went right out the window. It was just after 4pm and had only just jacked the oven to 300, I had to move.
Wash, dry meat and let the chill come off. Rub with extra virgin and grab Scott’s Survival Spice. This ain’t just some old premade nothin’ blend. Scott put a lot of time and effort in to this rub and it shows. If I don’t have any of mine laying around, or no time to make one, this is the one to grab. And brother, or sister, I’m glad I did.
Sliced a white onion in to rings and laid on the bottom of the roaster. And maybe 8 cloves of garlic, whacked once with a knife, peeled. One thing I’ve noticed about cooking in the clay oven, I’m far more thoughtful about moisture. That is to say, what you put in there, even an onion, will add moisture that doesn’t escape, much. So, just the little amount of onion, garlic and the moisture in the meat was enough to cook this thing for 9 hours.
Here it is in a nutshell, onion, garlic, dry drubbed meat, 300 for 4 hours, down to 250 for 5 hours. Pull, let rest for an hour or so and refrigerate. Total cost is about 8 to 9 dollars, not counting 9 hours of natural gas pouring in to my range. I know I may be going out on a limb here, but I’m putting the flavors, texture, juice factor and pully apartyness at the very top. I would say this roast could very well be the best pork shoulder I’ve ever received from my oven.
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I have spoken.

ps – I didn’t soak my cooker because the inside upper and lower lid are glazed. Not sure soaking it with water would have done anything positive.

Where’s Biggles?

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Just hang tight, in a holding pattern for the moment. All is good and well, expect spiffy things.
Whatchu lookin’ at Willis?
xo, Biggles
ps – 13 year old son took this a few hours ago

a citrussy thumb? non?

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No. A few years ago I planted a little grapefruit tree and a little lime tree. My older lemon tree has produced a few good lemons, but mostly they look like the grapefruit you see before you. See the pith? It’s nearly all pith, just so you know. Not sure how it or I did that, but that’s okay.
Wanna know why? Well, last night was taco night! They’re simple little rigs and I buy all the stuff we need from Omar of Joya de Ceren, it’s my nature. While some ingredients vary, there are the staples that each trip produces. One of which being limes.
Yeah well, I unloaded my stash last night and realized I’d forgotten the limes. I looked up at Z standing in the doorway and he had this look of shock and dismay on his face. Omar is only 3 blocks away, but I’d just returned and didn’t want to go back out. I didn’t think so, but if that little tree had just 1 little lime, just one usable one, that’d do it.
Today my good people, I am sharing with you the very first lime off the little tree and it was perfect in every way. Ain’t life grand?
xo, Biggles

Creamy Chicken & Rice & Poblano Casserole (clay pot)

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Where have I been? Off having a good time doing other things, tee hee.
Well, I had a hankerin’ for a good ol’ American casserole a while back. Something rich with juicy flavors that satisfies down to your toes. Hip to that? Had planned on the standard chicken, rice, creamy condensed soup with a few additions recipe. It’s easy and would satisfy.
Wanna come see what I came up with instead?

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Cavallo Point Cooking School Hosts – Hooves & Tales: A two day celebration of sustainable meat

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Whoa! What’s Meathenge posting about such a fancy schmancy place such as Cavallo Point Cooking School for? I mean, they are the cream of the crop. What gives?
You’re right, I don’t normally find myself in such company. However, as it turns out a long-time friend Kelsie Kerr is heading up their culinary department. She had a few questions, I supplied some possible photographs and thought it might be fun to do a post here. Who is Kelsie? She is an amazing woman & highly skilled chef, kind, inspired with a crystal clear vision, and has worked in some pretty amazing places over the years. Ever heard of Zuni Cafe in San Francisco? Yeah, she was a chef there. Cafe Rouge in Berkeley saw her laying the very foundation of what it is today. Chez Panisse was lucky enough to have her in the kitchen for quite a few years. I remember sitting (half snoozin’) on the sofa watching the food network. I thought I heard a familiar voice and looked up to see her preparing some fishy dish with Bobby Flay, go Kelsie !!! After her stay at Chez P., she began a very successful private chef and instructor gig. Have the most important dinner coming up and need someone this good in your kitchen? Kelsie’s your chef.
Now? Yeah, right back where we started. She’s the director at the Cavallo Point Cooking School. Gosh Kelsie, is there anything you can’t do?
But wait, it gets better, no really. Hunker down here and have a listen. Okay, so you know the topic of the class, right? Yeah, yeah. But do you know who she’s recruited as instructors? David Evans of Marin Sun Farms and … and … and the most awesome meat loving pair of all time, Taylor & Toponia of Fatted Calf !!!
Okay, take a deep breath, I’m all giddy. That’s right, this is a world-class happening folks and you need to do whatever it takes to get yourself a spot in this prestigious class. It ain’t going to happen again, this is it. It ain’t cheap, but it’d be worth anything you can do to get yourself a spot.
Please click through for the details.
Biggles

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The Biggles Method – Simple Pot of Beans – add that rack of ribs

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Editor’s note: Hand still really hurts, doing this post in batches. TCB baby!
Who here likes a good pot of beans? Excellent, me too. Who here has screwed up a pot of beans badly enough to just toss the batch? Hmm, yeah. Me too. Beans are an odd lot, even with a recipe it can head south at any given moment. Just because they’re dried, doesn’t mean you can get an old, nasty bag full. If one little ingredient is added and found to be too much, or not enough? You’re a goner. Please click through to read about my little bean adventure, you’ll be glad you did.

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Early Sunday Morning and a boo boo for Biggles

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Chilebrown called me last night and wanted to know if I wanted to meet up with Cookiecrumb, Cranky and his wife Peggy at the Marin Farmer’s market Sunday morning. Yes! It was nice getting out that early (7:30) on a Sunday morning, felt good. I nabbed this shot while coming back on the San Rafael bridge, pretty huh?
Yeah, yeah, whatever Biggles. You’ve been pretty much gone for the last week and promised a killer pot of beans that I simmered a rack of baby backs in to, where’s that? HUH !?!
Um, well a week ago, my hand “cancer” came back. 3 or 4 years ago the tendons in my right hand and wrist swell up and cause excruciating pain, 24 hours a day and there’s no way to hold it where it doesn’t hurt. Gets worse about midnight, ibuprofen helps. Cain’t even hold a pen, let alone write with it. I’ve been to an MRI, several specialists, so I won’t die or nothin’. But posting here and basic daily routines take a back seat.
So, that’s what that’s all about. Hope to see you all soon!
Biggles